The midweek is always hard times for a van band far from home—bar
crowds are thinner, local bands we co-operate with for audiences are
working regular jobs—and at times this Midwest midweek put our
determination to the test. The landscape, too: the perfectly level
horizon is occasionally dotted with wind farms, and the arbitrary
alternation of stubble and corn field speckled with yellow and purple
wildflowers, but the sheer endlessness of these things makes the
motion on the GPS seem like a lie. We’ve been driving around six hours
a day, from Muncie to Madison to Minneapolis to Milwaukee, and now to
Bloomington.
But we also stumbled upon the great joy of empty-nester couchsurfing.
We stayed with an amazing couple in Madison who took us in as if we
were their grandchildren. We grilled out in their back yard, and we
all slept in beds. John told us vulgar jokes and traveling stories
that night, and Sandy told us about their upcoming trip to Rome over a
humongous breakfast of eggs, sausage, hashbrowns, and cantaloupe.
They’d said they had all this space after their children married and
started families, so they share it through couchsurfing.
On Tuesday we drove north until hills rose from the fields and the
evergreens grew thick, and arrived in Minneapolis. We played there
earlier this summer and it’s now one of our favorite stops. Our spot’s
in the Dinkytown district near the university, a place called the
Kitty Cat Klub. When we first booked it we were almost expecting a
strip club, but it blew away our expectations. The rooms are only lit
with green, blue, pink, or red light, and filled with sumptuously
sunken couches and leather armchairs gathered around weighty wooden
tables. The chandeliers and candles illuminate bizarre portraits, a
catwoman with claws, Rasputin’s crazy stare, Venus emerging from a
lagoon. After eating our traditional meal at the Chinese joint down
the strip we set up shop in the corner, reading and writing and
painting our faces with tribal intensity.
The opener was pleasant, a dude named Al Church with guitar and drum
machine, sounded like a Thom Yorke solo show from twenty years ago.
We played our best set so far this tour (musically speaking) to a
small but appreciative audience that listened, clapped, and even
danced – not bad for a Wednesday far from home. Andy Ulseth’s band
played a dreamily autumnal closing set, wearing autumnal sweaters. It
made me look forward to trading out my shorts for another sweater in
my suitcase when we drop back through Nashville next week. We got
pretty silly while breathing in the gothic air for that long, deciding
that we should write a song based on the diagrams in Chris’s book on
Chaos Theory, and then we rocked out pretty hard to the last song of
the night. We drove to our hostess’ house to sleep. She was a very
kind and funny lady, and made us very comfortable in her colorful
home. I just found out that I left my pillow there, so I hope she
finds a good spot for its beige humility amongst her funky furniture.
Yesterday we drove from Minneapolis to Milwaukee, which we discovered
to be a well-built town with nobody enjoying it. We hung out in a
gorgeous park on Lake Michigan and it was relatively empty aside from
joggers. We did, however, take the time to shoot another acoustic
video of Kristen singing “Girl from the Northern States”.
That evening we went to Zad’s Roadhouse where we were to play. A
fifteen-foot wide construction ditch obscured the entrance, but we
were able to pull up on the sidewalk and unload. The place was almost
entirely deserted, except for the owner, his buddy who lived upstairs,
and five older fellows drinking at the bar in work clothes. The place
was well built and clean, but after the regulars finished their
customary afternoon binge and departed, uncomfortably empty. As a
touring band we often book bars on weekdays with the expectation that
we can at least play to regular customers. There were none and the
owners were getting restless. We were too. A brief interlude shifted
the mood to crime noir when some cops came in, we still don’t know
why, and we ate a satisfying grocery dinner of cucumber, tomato,
sausage, cheese, and triscuits, but once they left we were back to
trying to understand the Milwaukeean’s tipsy smalltalk and shying away
from the fact that no-one was there. We’d played packed shows last
weekend, so our morale wasn’t too depressed, and we finally had the
dreaded conversation with the owner—yep, wouldn’t make much sense to
play to nobody. We loaded back up and left Zads, cursing a little and
wondering if we could salvage the evening by busking. We went
downtown; it was deserted. We asked a bar if we could play for tips;
it was volleyball league night and they didn’t want to disturb their
regular customers, try again on the weekend. In a moment of
desperation Julian threw himself down on a boardwalk and told us to go
on without him.
But, in the midst of a desolate Milwaukee Wednesday night, we found a
nice green spot by the canal, met up with our couchsurfing hosts
Trisa, Kevin, Tracy, and Marissa, and played them a little private
show. We were joined by a couple out for a romantic walk, and a dude
walking his dog, so counting the dog the audience even outnumbered the
band. The weather was perfect, the occasional boat party passed
through behind us, and I remembered that singing country harmonies in
a beautiful place is always wonderful. And we had great company: our
hosts treated us wonderfully. Kevin shared Kiwi culture in the form of
Vegemite on toast, which I abhor but Rene and Joey really enjoyed.
Chris and I slept over at Marissa’s to make Trisa’s place more
spacious, and she not only anticipated our every need—a glass of
water, using the washing machine, towels for the shower—but also
delighted in putting bendy straws in our drinks for a flourish, and
waking up hours before her work to cook us eggs, pancakes, and
biscuits. In the South we pride ourselves on our hospitality, but she
really took it to the next level.
Today we departed Milwaukee for Bloomington, poorer but in good
spirits. We’ve continued being coy with Chicago, driving by but never
through. Today we just dropped into Whole Foods in the suburbs for
sandwich supplies, and ogled all the tasty things we’ll eat if we’re
ever superstars. This Saturday we’ll finally requite our love and play
down at the Horseshoe, so if you’re in the area, come check it out.
We’ve had a strange drive since then. The windmills made us feel like
Sky Captians in a zeppelin, and the huge insectoid construction
vehicles on I-65 appeared as alien spacerovers. Then out of nowhere a
rock popped up and hit our front window shield like a bullet, cracking
the outside, which we’ll have to replace when we get back to
Nashville. Later, when we were listening to Vampire Weekend’s “Oxford
Comma” Chris pointed to the crack and then the driver’s side while
they sang “first the window, then through the wall,” which hopefully
wasn’t prophetic.
Still, we’ve had some good jams, and we’re all pumped to play tonight,
especially since the inimitable Andy D is sharing the bill. He’s a
walking sexsplosion of rhyming disco funk, with dynamo moves and a
handlebar moustache. Come out tonight, Bloomington, and bring your
dancin shoes to Club 902.
In our eardrums recently: Nas, Bob Dylan (Bringing it All Back Home),
Doyle Dykes, Bruce Springsteen, Black Sabbath, Rage Against the
Machine, The Band, The Beatles (Magical Mystery Tour), Spoon, Vampire
Weekend (during which we admired our buddy Hamilton’s excellent cello
playing), the White Stripes, and Andy D
The Young Republic on the banks of Lake Michigan